Chicken Stock MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS I am often asked about the difference between stock and broth. Many of the chicken, beef, and vegetable stock products available in the grocery store are labeled “broth,” which is at odds with the definition of many chefs. Chefs view broth as liquid in which meat, fish, or vegetables have been cooked when the goal is also to consume the meat, fish, or vegetables. Stock, on the other hand, is the liquid in which meat, fish, bones, or vegetables are simmered for a relatively long period.
I discovered an infinite world of sauces beyond the familiar gravy, and learned about reductions, seasoning, and balance. I remember my first taste of the slick, iron-rich demi-glace and the brittle, bony minerality of court-bouillon. Shortly thereafter I moved to France. I was supposed to be at La Varenne in Burgundy with Anne Willan for three months and was there for nearly three years. At La Varenne I felt like I actually tasted the warm, grassiness of butter for the first time. I explored cheeses I had never known—some heady and thick with animal aroma, others delicate, pure suspensions of fresh, sweet milk.